Day 40: Mile 454 – 474
I had a good sleep at the campground, but unfortunately my sleeping pad popped again because I slept on a rock. That’s what you get for not checking underneath the tent!
Getting ready for trail, I wanted to stress less about the day’s plans. My goal for this week is to change my relationship to the stress revolving around logistics. I want to set my boundaries with how much I’m hiking, instead of stressing about keeping up with other people.
The day’s hike started with a long road walk through the town of Agua Dulce. I left at 7am, which was late for how hot it was. I was definitely concerned with the heat as we started climbing. Thankfully, though, when we actually got on trail, you could start to feel the breeze picking up.
The scenery climbing the hills out of Agua Dulce became beautiful quickly— big rolling hills, all different shades of green and yellow. Climbing was hot, but the breeze did wonders to make it tolerable. After the climb, we dipped down into an oak woodland, which also surprised me. Even though it feels like the desert is wearing on me, it still holds so many secret wonders around the ridgelines.
After getting water from a spring jutting out of the rocks in the oak trees, we continued back out to the hot, exposed chaparral hillside. We climbed down to a road, and then back up another hill. The sun was beating down, but I didn’t take many breaks since there were tons of biting flies that would swarm the minute that I stopped. Even so, the taller manzanitas that casted even a bit of shade over trail were something to be so grateful for.
In the heat of the day, on the most brutal part of the climb, I found myself appreciating how well-constructed the trail was. There were lots of rock waterbars, which help prevent erosion, dotting the steep climb. Despite how difficult the trail has been, this portion has been easy to hike because of the trail work put into it. I’m happy to have the knowledge to appreciate it.
I pushed to get to the water cache, and met Clare there. She had set up her tent to avoid the flies since they were so awful. I carried on, and started to feel pretty tired after about mile eighteen, since I had taken essentially no breaks since starting.
I got to camp, which was on a ridgeline, tight on space since there were so many hikers. We squeezed in, and I hung out in my tent, protected from the flies. I made a bagel with avocado and cream cheese that I had packed out, and shared some of the huge avocado with Clare. It’s a nice treat to be able to have fresh food after a hard day of hiking.
Overall, the day was okay, difficult but doable. The moon is almost full and is shining brightly through the walls of my tent.
Day 41: Mile 474 – 494
Waking up after baking all day yesterday, my legs were covered in heat rash and I felt so exhausted.
I hiked out as early as I could, and thought about how the PCT was just not that fun right now. It made a lot of sense— we’d been out here for almost six weeks, things the newness of trail life was starting to fade, things were starting to feel routine, and the desert seemed to just wear on forever. It was a different type of desert landscape too, more difficult to travel through, less water, and less variation in conditions and scenery. I knew this section was notorious for this mental challenge. Rather than feeling upset or frustrated that I wasn’t having a great time, I tried to remind myself that it would be only a short time until the Sierras, and the only way out was to just keep hiking.
Descending to the highway to Green Valley, I saw a car parked at the trailhead, and sure enough, there was some early morning trail magic!!! Trader Joe worked in LA, but tried to make it out to trail most mornings to cook hikers breakfast! After dwelling on the difficulty of this section and the misery of yesterday all morning, encountering trail magic was like a sign screaming that everything was going to be okay.
We filled up water at the fire station, which made me think of Isabel, my volunteer firefighter. After that, it was just more hot, desert climbing. When it was hard, I tried to focus on the smell of the blooming desert wildflowers around me, or the views, which spanned across the San Fernando Valley.
When we reached the top of the climb, crossing over the ridge felt like entering another world. On one side was LA, the San Gabriels, and the lush green chaparral we’d been hiking through the past few weeks. And on the other, endless desert expanse. For the first time in a few days, I felt excitement bubble up inside of me. Even if it made me slightly nervous, crossing the Mojave was a milestone of the PCT, and a new challenge to shake up the routine of the desert section.
We’d still have plenty of ground to cover before crossing the desert. Rory, Clare and I descended to Lake Hughes Road, sweating and surrounded by flies again. This section seemed to be full of big climbs, big descents to water sources, and big climbs yet again. Exhausted, we took a well deserved break by the stream by the road. Clare and I hung out with Mercedes, another hiker we’d been leapfrogging with, and cooled down under a large tree. Everyone seemed to be having a hard time with this section, so it was good to commiserate together.
With only eight miles to camp, I left break late at around 2:45 to complete the final climb of the day. It was still hot, but the wind picked up, which helped significantly with keeping things cooler. It was kind of a slog. The trail went through overgrown brush and seemed to twist and turn aimlessly. There was lots of poodle dog bush surrounding the trail to avoid, since the plant can cause severe skin reactions. I didn’t see anyone else on trail all afternoon, so I pushed to camp alone, the wind howling and the sun slowly dipping down to the horizon.
Before I reached the water source, the landscape transitioned to a more forested landscape, which I was pleasantly surprised by. I didn’t know much about the mountains I was traveling through, but I wondered about them as I collected drips from a stream. I can’t wait to research all of this stuff after I’m done with the trail.
The campsite I was heading to, which was nestled in a grove of oak trees protected by the wind, was mostly full by the time I got there, but I squeezed in. Rory and Clare passed by and decided to push on to another one, so I said goodbye and started on my nightly chores of cooking and organizing for the next day. It was late, but I was on track for a decent bedtime,
Then, while I was taking off my socks and my dressing on my blister, it suddenly popped. It was shocking, honestly. I now had an open wound on my foot, and I frantically washed my hands and dug out my first aid kit. I couldn’t believe the one night I camped away from Clare, who is a nurse, I actually needed medical care. I took a long time to make sure it was clean and wrapped before going to bed extremely late for me at around 11.
I’m pretty nervous about the blister, given how substantial the wound is. I’m worried about both walking on it and it getting infected. It’s so difficult to keep things clean out here, especially with little water. There’s nothing I can really do except be as diligent as I can, keep an eye on it and keep hiking. I’m going to bed with the feeling that I just need to give up on this day, which honestly held a few really nice moments despite the hardship, and see what tomorrow holds.
Day 42: Mile 494 – 517
Last night I dreamt at being at a nice campsite with water and trail angels making food. If dreams reveal my wants, it’s crazy how my desires have shifted even this week.
I woke up early to care for my blister, and as I washing my feet outside my tent, a mouse popped up right next to me. It really surprised me, and I hoped I didn’t wake up anyone in the crowded tent site.
I knew it would be a slow day— I didn’t sleep much, I didn’t know how the walking would be on my blister, and I got my period again. I was still feeling nervous about the wound on my foot, and started catastrophizing about it getting infected and me having to leave trail. It was just one those days. All I could do, though, was to keep hiking on.
After about four miles, I saw Rory and Clare, which lifted my spirits. Clare gave me lots of first aid supplies and advice about how to care for the blister. We parted as I walked to Sawmill Campground to get water.
The water source was pretty out of the way. I had to climb to the campsite, down a forest road, and then scout out an unmarked trail up a hill to a cistern at the top. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the moments of adventure and the views from the top.
The campsite was really pretty, and I could see myself car camping with Isabel in a place like this. I called her since I had reception, and she encouraged me as I cried a little about everything that was going on. It makes all the difference in the world that she believes in me, and talking to her made me feel so much better.
Soon, it was back to hiking, even though I felt tired and low energy. Passing through an oak woodland, I listened to music, Townes Van Zandt again, even though I told myself I wouldn’t repeat albums. It was just such a comfort while I was struggling. Out of the woodland, it was back to scrub and heat and lots of bug bites, but I carried on.
I turned a corner and ran into the 500 mile marker. It’s an unbelievable distance, and I was so proud. It was ironic that it came at this time, in a not-so-scenic place on a tough day. That’s the real PCT. I’ve learned by now that’s not just about the incredible views or the joy, but rather the dedication to wake up every day and to walk through it all.
After pushing myself through the heat of the day, I took a long break near another cistern. After lunch, I got a big jolt of energy and a real desire to get to camp early, so I started booking it. The trail was super flat, through grass and oak trees, which also meant shade.
Even though Highway 138 was right in front of me in the distance, the trail snaked up and down hills and valleys meandering to get there. While the sun started hanging low in the sky, I saw my first rattlesnake on trail! It was lying across the trail, and when it saw me, it coiled up, flicked its tongue, and slithered down the mountain. It was honestly a sort of mystical experience. I had waited to see a rattlesnake for so long!
Hiking up and down the hills, my feet hurt, but my blister felt okay and my body in general was doing great. I made it to a dirt road and hiked alongside it to make it to the highway. I took in the expansive desert views from the valley, with the crickets chirping and cool breeze cooling me down. I felt like a cowboy. I couldn’t believe I was finally entering the desert for real, after all this time.
A truck driver honked his horn in encouragement after crossing the highway to Hiker Town, which is a run-down movie set-turned-hostel hosted by a trail angel. Honestly, it was pretty dirty and gross, and the vibes were weird, but I reunited with my friends and had running water, which left me with little to complain about.
The wind was wicked, just cutting right into my tent all evening. I took care of my blister and tried my best to make sure things didn’t blow away. I ate snacks for dinner, and didn’t set my alarm for the morning. I wanted to get as much rest as I possibly could.
Today was a good encapsulation of this whole section for the past few days— hot, hard, but also full of accomplishment. Even though I woke up today feeling drained, I still casually hiked around 23 miles, plus another two since I walked so much to the water source earlier today. It was my biggest day on the PCT yet, and I didn’t even feel like I had hurt myself doing it. And, it was after doing two consecutive 20 mile days. My trail legs were here! I hit 500 miles too, which meant that now, more than ever, I was really a thru-hiker.
The next two and half days will have us cross the Mojave Desert valley between us and Tehachapi. It’ll be more of the same, with the heat and lack of water, but also some variety, with adding night-hiking to avoid the brutal desert heat. I’m excited and nervous at the same time.
Thank you for reading and for the encouraging comments and messages! Another post is on the way shortly!
