Day 5: Miles 41.5-56

Today I woke up feeling much more rested after sleeping in a bed!! I had an amazing sleep and was so grateful to be out of the wind and cold.

Woke up, made coffee, packed up my bag, and hung out catching up on blog stuff and writing postcards. It was a good morning, but I was actually excited to get hiking again!

Claire and I left the AirBnB hoping to buy some things at the gear store, but sadly they were closed. The group checked the hiker box, and found a tent bag for our friend who lost one, and I found some tape to put on my skin that was irritated. Hiker boxes are so rad. It’s basically just random box of stuff that hikers don’t want that they leave behind for each other.

We took off hiking, chatting and having a good time, snacking and stretching along the way. The miles flew by, since they were relatively flat, scenic (unlike yesterday where we had no views) and in each others company. I think I even saw Mt. San Jacinto, which is crazy because I will be there in like two weeks or so!

At a certain point, I did start to feel kind of low. It was probably around 5 miles into the day, just under half of our goal. On trail, sometimes it feels like you’re on top of the world (literally), and then other times you swing in the other direction so easily, sometimes for no apparent reason at all.

I just had the thought that what I was doing, hiking the PCT, was so ridiculous and stupid, and I didn’t know what I was doing there. I tried to talk myself out of it but was just feeling meh. I decided to take out my headphones and try to listen to music to cheer myself up. I listened to Townes Van Zandt’s album and got to the song, “Don’t Take it Too Bad.” These lyrics really stood out to me:

And if you go searchin’

For rhyme or for reason

Then you won’t have the time

That it takes just for talkin’

‘Bout the places you’ve been, babe

‘Bout the faces you’ve seen, babe

And how soft the time flies

Past your window at night

It made me think of how walking this trail isn’t any more absurd than anything else we do in this life, like having a job or doing the things that society demands. I thought I should focus on enjoying the moments out here rather than trying to derive meaning from them. As long as I wanted to do this trail, that was as good as reason as any to keep going.

I felt much better after this, hiking at my own pace, taking in the views of the desert floor below us and the lush shrubland around me. There were tons of flowers, and these cute caterpillars on the trail and in the vegetation around us. I wondered what kind of moth or butterfly they would become! They were so adorable!!

Claire and I were BOOKING it today, and we decided to push until our next water source at Pioneer Mail. The last two miles were a struggle, but by the time we made it to the picnic area on the side of a road, we had hiked six miles without a break and 10 miles total!!! I couldn’t believe it. We had lunch at the water source, which was like a trough for horses to drink out of I think, which said, “DO NOT DRINK, NON POTABLE WATER.” I wish I had a picture!

I scarfed down my food, running through my snacks for the day, and enjoyed catching up with Miriam and Elene, who we had caught up to.

At that point, we only had three miles to go! It was so incredibly windy, but beautiful to look from atop this ridge we were on to the desert below. I wish I had taken more pictures, but sadly my wind pants don’t have pockets so my phone is buried most of the day. I’m looking forward to getting a fanny pack in Julian so I can have my phone more accessible.

I hiked alone for the last two miles, and eventually turned a corner to find our campsite at Orroflame Canyon. And boy, was it windy! There were a few spots but not many protected by rocks from the wind. I was a little worried about setting up my tent and trying to sleep given how gusty it was. We found Miriam and Elene, who had carved out a spot for themselves. Claire and I backtracked to try to find ourselves a spot, and were able to find a single spot tucked away in a small gully. Instead of splitting up and one person having a crappy spot, I offered Claire to bunk with me in my two person tent, and just like that, I had a roommate! The spot we set up on was so slanted, but at least it was about 75% less windy than out on trail.

We made dinner and ate pretty much non-verbally as the cold set in. Both of us were anxious about the temperature, so I was glad we were together. The weather was forecasted to hit 34 degrees, and about 23 with wind chill.

I saw the last bit on sunset and soon settled into my sleeping bag. I hope it’s a warm night. I literally have all of my clothes on.

Day 6: Mile 56-68.3

I woke up early in our cozy campsite actually warm despite the temperatures that reached freezing. The condensation on my tent had frosted a little! I was so so grateful for our sheltered spot. The sunrise was so beautiful from our campsite. Claire was incredibly kind and made me hot coffee since I had to put the tent away, which was a really nice way to start the day.

We started hiking and immediately stumbled upon our little group. Apparently they slept pretty cold, adding to my gratitude for our awesome site.

I hiked with others for about five minutes, until I decided I didn’t want to push fast miles. I’m starting to get better at knowing my own limits, and figuring out how to walk at an easy pace so that way I don’t gas myself out by the end of the day. Consequently, though, it means that I’m spending most of my time hiking alone. I don’t mind it! Today I descended into a green verdant canyon, and the views were awesome. I put on music to start today, this time listening to the Grateful Dead’s “American Beauty.” I’ve never listened to the Grateful Dead before and it was such a vibe to be traveling through the desert landscape hearing this album for the first time!! Thanks Joe for the rec!!

At some point I caught up to the group filtering water. We filtered out of another horse trough, and saw some wildland firefighters doing a training hike. I shoveled lots of food into my face, and felt pretty good leaving the picnic area.

I hiked alone some more. Not too much to say, except for some good views, and tumbling around thoughts of what this thru-hike will look like for the next few months. My body has been feeling good, which I’m so thankful for, which makes me feel validated in the way I’ve been going slow, fueling, and trying to get good sleep.

I met up with my group again at the next water source, met some new hikers, talked with a hiker named Olivia about camping alone. That’s one if the things I’m most nervous about, and probably my limiting factor to totally doing this hike on my own terms, if that’s what I want. She said to just try it ASAP, and I feel like once I get camping alone out of the way I will feel much better.

I was definitely pushing myself miles-wise, and the group I was with wanted to do more. They also didn’t want to zero either. I started to make peace with the fact that I would probably be losing the group I was hiking with thus far. This would probably lead to more solo time, possibly camping alone at some point, etc., but maybe also new friends and possibilities??

Thankfully, Claire was totally down to stop hiking after doing 13 miles, and we camped close to the water tank, the last water source before Julian. We found a very sweet spot that was flat and was surrounded by flowers. It was so luxurious to get to camp before 5pm, so I organized my stuff, made dinner, stretched, and just cooled off and enjoyed the desert views.

A bar of LTE service blew into the campsite and I got to talk to Isabel for like five minutes!! The smile on my face was huge. It was maybe the highlight of the day. I miss her so much and can’t believe I’m away from home so long. The trail is really throwing into relief what’s important to me already (independence, appreciating small moments, my partner and family, so many other things.).

Tomorrow is Julian! I will be taking a zero, just to preemptively catch up on recovery needs. I’m nervous to lose the “tramily” I’ve gathered so far, but also excited to not be constrained by other people’s plans and ideas about what trail should look like. I love setting my own pace, but also like being around people, so I know this will definitely be a challenge.

Day 7: Miles 68.3 – 77

Woke up earlier to beat the heat this morning, 5:15, which turns out is not even close to early enough! Sunrise in the desert is so magical and peaceful. As I was getting ready for the day I just listened to the birds (and tried to ID via the Merlin app!) and saw the wildflowers bloom in the cool dawn air. I hope I will be able to tune into these moments on trail more easily, when the physical and logistical challenges feel smoother.

My water filter was having problems, so I was thankful to Claire for letting my borrow hers getting water from the tank in Rodriguez Canyon. The view from the tank was gorgeous, just the sun shining on an open desert valley. It reminded me of the song, “Open Desert,” by Big Thief.

Claire and I took off hiking at around 7am, and had a wonderful two miles hiking in the shade of the mountains, chit-chatting about work, our goals, and our love for saunas. The miles flew by, and before I knew it I was taking my first break of the day, eating my second breakfast of Pop Tarts.

The day started to heat up after that, significantly. When the sun started shining on us, it got hot! This is the first day that it really feels like I’m hiking through a desert. I ascended and descended the mountains surrounding the desert valley, keeping my eyes peeled for snakes, as well as rocks that would make me trip into the abundant cacti surrounding the trail. It was a short day, under nine miles, but definitely challenging due to the heat. I will be getting up at least an hour earlier for sections like this. Whenever you find a bit of shade though, it’s amazing how quickly your body cools down and you’re restored to keep going! We took little breaks like this under shrubs, kept drinking water and electrolytes, and pushed on.

At a certain point, we arrived to the floor of the valley as we made our way to Scissor’s Crossing, the hitch point to get to Julian. It was hot but flat, and I felt like I was in the song, “A Horse With No Name,” just wandering aimlessly in an expansive desert landscape. Claire and I fell in and out of silence and delirious conversation. She said at one point that she thought that the desert section of the PCT would all be like this, and I agreed that I’m glad it hasn’t been. It’s been so lush and beautiful so far, and even in this landscape there’s still so much beauty in the harsh terrain.

We made it to the underpass at Scissor’s Crossing, and almost immediately got a hitch with Ray, a trail angel who works with the gear store in town. We laughed and talked about the trail as he drove us and two others up the windy road to Julian, and he was so incredibly kind and positive. I wasn’t surprised to hear that his trail name was “Ray of F*cking Sunshine.”

In town, we met up with so many more hikers. It was truly awesome to see everyone we had hiked with over the last few days make it to town— I’ve met so many people, and loved saying hi to everyone and catching up.

Unfortunately, a water main had broken in Julian, so all of the restaurants were closed. We were able to get free pie for PCT hikers though, which is a Julian tradition! Claire and I decided to push ourselves to complete our resupply, and we hit the gear store and the grocery store. I replaced my filter, got a fanny pack, and chatted with the employee at the gear store.

Since all of the restaurants were closed, the closest place to eat was a pizza placeabout 10 minutes away in Wynola. The larger trail family had gone to the AirBnb to make freezer pizzas, but Claire and I had a hankering for salad and a good meal. We talked to the trail angels at the gear store, and they volunteered to drive us there to pick up food. I can’t emphasize enough how much kindness there is coming from trail angels and those in the PCT community. It’s kind of unbelievable, and I feel undeserving just because sometimes it feels like I’m just walking. But now that I’m part of this community, I hope to pay it forward, both on trail and in the future.

We got to the AirBnB, and I was able to shower and wash my clothes. I took care of lots of chores, including learning how to transfer isopro fuel from one canister to another, thus saving money on buying new fuel at each town by filling up my canister with half-used canisters from others.

The AirBnB had eight people in it, but I wasn’t hanging out too much, trying to focus on my chores so I could enjoy my day off tomorrow. I’m realizing that I need a lot more solo time than I imagined, and that the large social groups can be overwhelming. I think that’s good information to know going forward, that maybe I should try to prioritize my own needs above staying in a group, since the social stuff doesn’t always make me feel restored. I’m really looking forward to hiking with a small group soon as a way to balance the social/solo time— me, Claire and Lily (who goes by “Toehat” now).

Tomorrow is a zero day, which means hiking 0 miles! I’m excited to take it easy, and focus on recovery. Erin (my cousin) is also coming from San Diego to visit, and I’m really looking forward to that. I hope that I get lots of good sleep and end the day feeling excited to get back on trail!